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FOOD: The cult of Wing Fa

Chinese food north of he pagoda

Emily Gennis

Issue date: 11/20/07 Section: a & e

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There's something about Wing Fa that inspires intense devotion among its die-hard patrons (of which there are few). The great Chinese cuisine, friendly service, and cozy atmosphere all play a role, but the best way to describe the restaurant is this: it's got great vibes.

People don't go to Wing Fa for a quick meal. They go to enjoy a long, relaxing evening. They go to linger over well-prepared Szechuan and Pekinese dishes, served out in generous helpings. They go because Wing Fa is nothing if not consistent, and they are virtually guaranteed to have a fantastic dinner. And last but not least, they go for the free cookies.

One of the oddest things about Wing Fa is that, despite the great food and comfy atmosphere, it's almost always empty. But as it turns out, a restaurant's service is extremely efficient when there are no other customers to distract the wait staff. Diners barely have to glance up at their idle waiter before he comes rushing over to fulfill their every request.

And once their food arrives, most people are too busy chewing to communicate at all apart from giving their companions a thumbs-up.

Newcomers to Wing Fa should peruse the menu with one suggestion in mind: if it has "crispy" in the name, get it. The crispy noodles are a personal favourite. Salty pieces of meat and vegetables are dispersed through the crunchy, chewy fried noodles. The crispy beef is another crowd pleaser. Strips of crunchy beef are so tender on the inside that they seem to have been soaking in their savory sauce for days.

But Wing Fa's triumphs are not limited to its crispy dishes. The "imperial chicken" has a clear, viscous sauce that has been known to inspire shameless plate-licking among uninhibited diners (like the one writing this review).

Meat dishes are clearly Wing Fa's pride and joy, but the restaurant also has more than a few satisfying vegetable options in its repertoire. The eggplant is (of course) fried and soaked in another of the restaurant's wonderful sauces. The assorted vegetable dish is also a good bet, because it features the mouth-watering sauce that also appears on the "imperial chicken".

Despite the healthy selection of vegetables (which are all fried to perfection) Wing Fa's patrons tend to leave the restaurant in a significantly rounder state than when they entered. But the complementary plate of fresh fruit and cookies at the end of the meal helps to refresh the body a bit. It's homey touches like this which make Wing Fa an excellent Chinese dining experience.



Wing Fa is at 3474 Parc. Call (514)282-3938 for reservations.

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